Hard Sleepers/卧铺

(下面有中文版)

In another post, I talked about the different kinds of trains, and also touched upon five different types of slow train tickets: soft sleeper, hard sleeper, soft seat (sometimes), hard seat, and no seat. I’ll write about hard seat/no seat soon enough, but for now, let’s dive into the wonderful world of hard sleeper tickets!

First off, when is it a good idea to get a hard sleeper?

Well, I personally think hard sleeper tickets are the most cost-effective way to do overnight trains. True, you can save a lot of money by getting a hard seat (and if money is a big issue for you, then you might not have a choice), but the major downside to a hard seat is that you probably won’t sleep. (Unless you have buns of steel). For some, it’s a worthwile trade-off to save that much more rmb. However, as I’ve come to appreciate more and more, sleep is a GREAT thing! Get a hard sleeper if you have a long ways to go, and enjoy your night’s rest. (Tip: bring earplugs and a face mask, in case your bunkmates are there to play poker all night…that, or join them!)

So, okay, you’ve chosen a hard sleeper. Which bunk should you get?

I’ve slept in all three beds (top, middle, bottom), and there are advantages and disadvantages to each one.

Bottom bunk: This one is indisputably the best. The ticket is slightly more expensive than the others because of this, but for good reason. As a bottom bunk, you don’t constantly have to climb in and out of bed, AND your bed doubles as a seat with its own side table for when you want to enjoy the scenery. The only disadvantage: others may crowd your bed to use it as a seat, too. But most respect you if you want to lay down. You just have to speak up!

Middle bunk: This is my personal LEAST favorite, if only because it’s the most awkward for me to climb into. Others may have no problem whatsoever getting in, but not me. I have to weirdly swing over from the side ladder and unceremoniously plop into my bed while shimmying in the rest of the way. Some (*coughmostcough*) are more flexible than me and don’t mind. Alas, this one feels awkward to me. Though, two major perks: you can look out the window from your bed (because it’s not too high) and you can still reach the side table by the bottom bunk to leave your water bottle at night.

Top bunk: This one’s the cheapest, and most people don’t like it. I like it more than the middle bunk, if only because it’s easier for me to climb into. I just have to go all the way up the ladder and then fall onto the bed. True, there are some major disadvantages: you have no side table access, you can’t see out of the window, and if you’re tall like me, you also can’t sit up without hitting your head. Major perk: you can easily access your luggage from the top rack, which for a fatty like me who likes to snack, this is a great thing.

Once you get a hard sleeper ticket, the rest is pretty straightforward. The conductors take your ticket and give you a plastic card in exchange so that they can keep track of when you need to get off. There are side tables by the windows across the aisle and enough walking space if you need to stretch your legs.

Sure, planes are faster ways of travel, but sometimes, it’s nice to take the longer route, and this is a good way to do it.

我在另一篇文章提到了火车的类型,也提到了慢车的五种票:软卧,卧铺,所谓的软座,硬座,无座。我稍后会谈到硬座与无座,但是现在要讲的是卧铺!

首先,什么时候应该买卧铺票?

我个人感觉卧铺票是火车最经济的过夜火车票。当然,你可以买硬座票更省钱(如果你的钱很紧张,你可能只有这个选择),但是硬座最大的缺点就是除非你的屁股像钢筋一样硬,绕不然你整夜都不可能睡着吧!有些人可以接受为了省钱而熬夜,但是我慢慢感到其实睡觉是一件非常重要的事情!如果你的路比较远,那就买卧铺,睡个好觉吧。(我建议你也带着耳塞、眼罩,因为有可能其他乘客要过夜玩扑克牌……这样,或者你就加入他们的游戏!)

好了,你选了卧铺。要买那一个床呢?

卧铺的下中上铺我都睡过了,各有利弊。

下铺。这个无疑是最好的。下铺也是最贵的卧铺票,但是贵有贵的道理。有下铺,你就不用断断续续爬上床,加上你的床也可以当做你的座位,包括你自己的小桌子在窗户旁边。这样很方便看风景。只有一个缺点:有可能其他乘客也想坐在你的床上,所以你要睡觉的时候就要胆子大点让他们走。

中铺。其实这个铺是我最不喜欢的,因为我感觉是最难爬上去的。其他人可能感觉没问题,但是我就不行。我要特别尴尬地从小楼梯爬到床边,然后转身,最后将自己一点一点挪进去。有些(大部分吧……)人比我更灵活,所以觉得也没什么。可惜,对我来说就很尴尬。但是,这个床有两个优点:一,你还是可以从床上看窗外,二,你还是可以摸得到下铺的小桌子,刚好把杯子放在那儿。

上铺。这个床就是最便宜的,但是大部分人不那么喜欢。我个人觉得上铺比中铺好,因为对我来说比较好爬的。你主要爬到最高的位置,然后落在床上。那当然有一些比较大的缺点:你没有旁边的小桌子,你从床上不能看到窗外,而且如果你跟我一样个子很高,你坐不起来。但是最大的优点是你从上铺很容易拿到你的行李,所以跟我一样好吃的游客,这个方法最方便偷吃东西。

你拿到卧铺票之后,其他都很直接的。列车长会及时换票并提醒下车,这样他们也清楚你在哪一个站下车。过道旁边也有很多小桌子,很方便看窗外的风景,你也可以在过道上走走,锻炼身体。

当然,飞机是更快的旅行方式,但是有的时候漫游很好,而且卧铺票是最好的选择。

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