Qinghai Lake/青海湖

(下面有中文版)

One of the most well-known places to explore in Qinghai would undoubtedly be Qinghai Lake. It’s also one of the most congested places, depending on what time of year you go. If you go in July-August, when college students are on summer vacation, the road along the lake will be very crowded with cyclists, all vying for the same “off the beaten track” adventure…in a giant crowd of people doing the same thing. Any other time of year will be less crowded.

Should you avoid biking it altogether because of this? No! It’s a circuit that will take you around the famed salt lake in 3-4 days (depending on your speed) and will show you scenery ranging from snow-capped mountains, to herds of farm animals grazing, to nomadic Tibetans in the fields. You’ll see temples, prayer flags, and of course, the lake!

I will admit that Qinghai Lake has definitely been touched by the hand of Chinese tourism, meaning that many of the prettiest spots have been given poetic names and have entrance fees. Local Tibetans in this area are also well-tuned to the tourist part of this lake, charging people to take pictures of their sprawling fields of rapeseed flowers. There will be random spots where you can ride horses, yaks, and in the small portion with sand dunes, even sled down sand. If this sounds like too much for you, Qinghai has other areas to enjoy, but if you’re like me, you can enjoy this scenery while avoiding the slap of tourist attractions for the most part.

If you want to bike around Qinghai Lake, most start at a small town called 西海镇 (xi hai zhen) and take 3-4 days. There are also buses that go along one half of the lake, to 黑马河 (hei ma he) which is generally seen as “the sunrise spot.”

Or, you could take a gamble like me, and hitchhike. I made my way around the entire lake in 2 days purely by hitchhiking, and even lucked my way into a kind Tibetan family on my way back who took me for a spin in a roadside temple. All things considered, Qinghai Lake might not be the natural getaway you’d hope for, but it’s certainly beautiful nonetheless.

青海省最有名的景点肯定是青海湖,但是它也是青海最拥挤的地方。如果你是7、8月份去青海湖,这就是大学生放假的时候,所以到处都是骑自行车的年轻人。他们都在追求最奇览的经验……而且都在大群当中寻找同一个“没有人经历过”的感觉。其他时间会好一些。

这么多人说明你要放弃把青海湖绕一圈吗?并不是!这一条路会化3、4 天时间把这个有名的盐湖绕一圈(但是也要看你的速度)。你会经过雪山,大群野物,还有藏族农民。你也会看到经幡,寺庙,等等。

我会承认青海湖受到了中国旅游业的影响,说明青海湖最美丽的景点有很美丽的名字,所以有门票。当地人也发现了可以赚钱,所以如果你想拍油菜花的图片,会收钱。有些地方你可以骑马,也可以摸牛拍照。在青海湖的沙漠区,你也可以坐雪橇下沙山。如果你觉得太过分的话,你可以去青海其他地方玩,但是如果你跟我一样,你可以不那么在意这种旅游业的东西,从自己内心去看青海湖。

如果你想骑自行车,大部分游客是从西海镇开始,花大概三、四天时间。青海湖也有汽车到黑马河(被称作“看日出”的地方)。

你也可以跟我一样碰运气地搭顺风车。我花了两天时间把青海湖绕了一圈,全部是从搭车过来的。我第二天运气特别好,就碰到了一个藏族的一家人,带我去路边的寺庙。总体来说,青海湖可能不是你想想的“无人风景区”,但是它还是很漂亮,还是值得赞美的。

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