At the End of the Great Wall: My Journey to Every Chinese Province

Back in 2013, I stood on Jiayuguan fort, the end of the Great Wall in Gansu Province that was called “the Beginning of Nowhere.” The crenelations faced a vast and brutal desert that sentries used to guard, often watching merchants slip into the packed sand to continue along the Silk Road.

I think about this now in 2017, having just stood atop a fort on the Great Wall again, this time at the other end in Hebei Province’s Shanhaiguan — the Great Wall that enters the Bohai Sea. My hiking boots have been worn down, rips and seams gaping open and beyond repair. It wasn’t gritty sand caking my skin, but seasalt and the crashing sound of the waves below.

Great wall water 2

I wanted to end my trip at Shanhaiguan, because it’s more than the end of this trip, but the end of many trips that have taken me all over China’s diverse soil. My tattered boots and I have trekked sand dunes, mountain paths, seashores, and snow. We’ve gone all over China together for the past five years. And now, we’ve been to every single Chinese province.

Hannah boots

Back when I first got these boots in 2013, I had no intention of traveling so much. In fact, before I came to China, I had never traveled alone, period. My first stay in an international youth hostel was in Shanghai in 2012, and it was thrilling because it was so new. When people recommended a place to visit, I searched for it on my then-clean map of China thinking “maybe someday.” China on that map was like a distant star then: something I could look at but perhaps never touch.

Since then, my map has been filled not only with ink, but with memories of where I was and even who I was in the moment I visited a place. At times, I was the lost foreigner. At others, the dusty hitch-hiker. I’ve had conversations with people that stayed with me for years. I’ve had conversations that I didn’t understand.

The road my boots and I have walked through China has greatly shaped the person I am today. Where once I was a terrified girl playing at being an adult, now I’m standing tall and walking strong. Though the world can be scary, I’m not scared to be a part of it anymore am ready for new things. So, it is with bittersweet satisfaction that I write this, knowing that I’ll have to replace those boots someday (soon, probably), and that all roads come to an end.

But as a friend in Changchun told me, the fort at Shanhaiguan is NOT the end of the Great Wall. It’s actually the beginning. The name “Laolongtou” (老龙头) means “dragon’s head,” which is the starting point.

And what better place to end, than at a beginning of something new?

I did it 2

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Welcome! 欢迎你!

So! You’ve decided to travel in China. What should you see?

If you look a map of China and say “Ehn, there’s not much to see,” all I can say is: are your geography skills really that bad? Yikes. I’ve been in China for almost 5 years, and am ALMOST done visiting every province (oh yeah, I’m insane).The map in the header is actually mine, and is hanging in my bedroom as we speak. I have routes for past trips and travels of mine. So, if you STILL think, “There’s not much to see in China,” then maybe this blog isn’t for you.

“All right, fine, then how about Beijing, Shanghai, that place with the Terra Cotta Warriors, and some pandas?” I mean, yeah, it’s good to see such famous spots, but I’m not going to waste word count on places we all already know about. Let’s be brave, strap on our boots, and dive into the beautiful and strange hidden treasures that are all over China!

好了,既然你打算在中国旅游,你有想好要看什么做什么吗?

如果你说:‘中国没什么好看的,’那么我会说你的地理意识不太好。我在中国快五年了,差不多去过中国的每一个省。(没错!我就是那么疯狂的。)上面贴的地图就是我自己去过的路线,你可以看到我去过很多地方。如果到这里你还是觉得中国没有什么好看的……那我会建议你不用关注这个博客了。

‘那就先去北京,上海,或者那个有兵马俑的地方,然后再去看看熊猫好了,’你说。好吧,看著名景点是理所当然的,但是对我而言我不想浪费太多的文字来描述大家已经熟知的地方。要不我们一起来体验一下那些与众不同的地方吧?没有什么比探索未知更加刺激。

我们走吧!